Phil Collins, the meaning of style, 2011. at the Singapore Biennale 2011
I just wish I could find a better version of this video. Unfortunately, I think this is as good as it gets short of seeing it person. At it’s base this is a portrait of malaysian skinhead subculture. Traditionally a British subculture, skinhead style has turned up just about everywhere, exported, imported, appropriated, and reappropriated in a variety of ways and for all kinds of reasons. Sometimes, sadly, these reasons are hateful and disgusting. However, it would be terribly ignorant for this to eclipse the greater truth about the richness of skinhead subculture, particularly about its origins. Let this video help set aside for a moment all the negative or supportive statements one might say about skinhead subculture, and instead regard how skinheads make a great example of a very style-conscious subculture. I believe this is what the artist wants us to do, at the very least.
I think some context is useful for some more in-depth understanding of this installation. Malay skinheads are often mistaken by police because of their resemblance to Nazi punks who harbor anti-Muslim and extreme nationalist beliefs. My guess is that the skinheads depicted here, however, are mostly interested in what you see them doing, rather than hate, racism, and violence. It’s clear they’re interested in listening to music (probably oi! or ska), enjoying camaraderie, and dressing in a particular way. This piece contradicts the stereotypes about skinhead subculture by depicting the group communing peacefully together and with butterflies.
The history of the skinhead subculture contains so many good examples of the politics of style. Style is potentially a way of communicating cultural interests. However, style can be a source of miscommunication and misinterpretation depending on the relative ignorance about that culture. In the worst cases, style can be the means to (mis)identify people in order to subject them to state or group politics.
Style is inextricable from meaning. We look for meaning in style, whether we intend to or not. There is meaning implied by someone’s style, whether they intend it or not. Let’s try to narrow that gap between what one implies and another infers, to make sure our interpretations are correct.
